I am starting this article while freezing my butt off in the Puerto Montt airport, waiting for my flight back to Santiago and working life… I’m sad. Even more so since the past 2 days have been beautiful, interesting and sunny.
Let’s rewind back a bit so I can tell you about my fourth day!
I woke up in my freezing room in Dalcahue, cuddling up to my heated mattress for the last time… I was devastated! But I had to get moving in order to reach my next stop: Castro, the biggest city of Chiloe. Before grabbing the bus there, I had a nice breakfast with Anita and Mariana, my new Colombian friend, and also headed to the church of Dalcahue to try my luck at seeing its inside again. It worked! The church was open and when I came in, there was a pretty big mass going on. I took a subtle few pictures of the light blue interior in order not to disturb, and also strolled along the docks, on the beach and around the artisanal market one last time. I also discovered a beautiful shop called DecoCalen which sold beautiful wool blankets. I fell in love with a beautiful pastel one but sadly it was a little to pricey and big for me to bring back…
Overall, I enjoyed Dalcahue and felt happy with my decision to spend two nights there!
Ready to move on, I said goodbye to Anita, and quickly got on one of the many buses headed to Castro. Getting there took about 1 hour and my hostel, Globber Trotter hostel, was located a 10 minutes walk from the bus station. There, I met quite an extravagant crew of artists, which seemed to all be friends of the owner, and got settled into a double room to myself despites having booked a cheaper single bed in a shared room – NICE!
The hostel owner, Miguel, was headed to town so he dropped me off at a mirador and gave me indications for a picturesque 25 minutes wander to the center. This provided some nice views on the Palafitos, the famous stilt houses of Castro. Once I got to the center, I headed straight to the Plaza de Armas where the amazing church stands.
It wouldn’t open until 3:30 PM though, so I continued my walk to the port and artisanal market. There, I found out that a boat tour around the Castro bay and close to the Palafitos would depart at 3:30 PM as well so thought it’d be nice to grab some food before that. Not fancying the seafood of the artesanal market, I went looking for something else but it turns out not many things are open on a Sunday in Castro, despite it being the Chilotan Capital. I found a shawarma in a little restaurant near the Plaza de Armas, but nothing to drool over.
The boat tour was really nice, if you do it, my tip would be to sit at the front right of the boat, I sat there by chance and had the best views and pic opportunities 😉
The boat tour takes about 30 mins, giving me plenty of time to enjoy the rest of this sunny afternoon. My next stop was the church, and it was honestly breathtaking. Unlike the previous two churches I had seen, the Church of Castro isn’t painted inside. It really showcases the beauty and intricacy of the carpinter work. This is also the biggest church I could visit during my trip and probably the most impressive one.
Next, I followed another one of my guest’s recommendations and hopped on a bus to Chonchi, a village located about 45 minutes away and home to another UNESCO Church. It was getting dark when I arrived and the town seemed very sleepy. Unluckily, the church was shut, so I headed down to the waterfront, where I witnessed a wonderful sunset. I stayed there to take it all in and photoshoot the beautiful pink shades reflecting on the still waters. I walked around a little after this and then decided it was time to call it a day, so took another little bus to Castro.
Before walking back to my hostel, I popped by the supermarket and got myself a few supplies for dinner as well as breakfast, which wasn’t included at Glober Trotters.
There was another group of French people at the hostel that night, so I had company. The host had offered to include me in the big seafood dinner he had organised for them but I wasn’t tempted. Instead, I sat with them while they churned down impressive amounts of food and I made myself some tomato and avocado sandwiches. Afterwards, I had an amazing night sleep burried under layers of duvets!
Cost break down for the day:
- Two days stay in hostal Lanita: CLP 18000
- Bus Dalcahue to Castro: CLP 800
- Shawarma: CLP 5500
- Boat tour + tip: CLP 3000 and CLP 1000
- Slice of Küchen: CLP 890
- Return bus Castro – Chonchi: CLP 1600 (if heading to Chonchi, I would recommend taking the bus from the Municipal bus station, not the Cruz del Sur one, which is most expensive).
Total: CLP 30790 – £35 – $47 (03/07/2018 conversion rate)
Impressions for the day:
- Today was definitely my favorite day so far! It was crisp but really sunny and I was able to do almost everything I tried to (except the Chonchi church). I also loved the atmosphere at my hostel and was happy to run into people!
- The San Francis Church was beautiful, don’t miss out on it if you go to Chiloe. In fact, don’t miss out on Castro!
I’m back in Santiago and had a long day at work after only sleeping 3 hours last night. Missing Chiloe already… Excited for the whole month of travelling coming up soon. Have you guys got any plans? xx